This tutorial is also available in French
➔
Rear wheel bearings change on Austin Mini
Vehicle ➔ Mini 1000 am1991 automatic transmission
Difficulty ➔ Medium
Time ➔ 3 hours
Summary
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Originally, the bearings mounted on the rear hubs of Minis were ball bearings. Then, they were replaced by tapered roller bearings. Ball bearings are no longer sold by Mini parts suppliers. However, you can mount tapered roller bearings on your Mini regardless of its year of manufacture.
Bearings are pre-adjusted assemblies. In the packaging, the races and rollers of each bearing are either connected by a plastic link or in a plastic bag. Never mix the elements of one bearing with the elements of another. This could impair their operation.
We decided to invest in ''Genuine'' quality wheel bearings (Timken) because we had a bad experience with ''adaptable'' ones. Once the adaptable bearings were fitted, the hub did not turn freely.
The 2 castellated nuts on the 2 rear stub axles are different. The nut on the right side has a standard thread while the nut on the left side has a reverse thread.
Each time a stub axle pin is removed, always reinstall a new pin.
Required Tools
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Packaging :
•
GHK1805: Bearing kit for 1 rear wheel. 2 kits are required for a vehicle. The kit usually includes 2 tapered bearings, 1 O-ring (CDU1173), 1 split pin (GHF511) and 1 oil seal (GHS102), but this is not always the case. Check before placing the order.
• The other parts above are sold individually.
• The other parts above are sold individually.
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Remove the bearings
Op 01
Remove the wheel and rear brake drum (➔ see the tutorial ''Replacing rear brake shoes'' Op 01 to 11).
Op 02
Remove the hub nut cap. Use a chisel and a hammer.
Place the chisel on the flange of the nut cap. Tap gradually around the entire periphery of the nut cap.
The nut cap must come out straight along the axis of the hub. If it goes in crooked, it will get stuck.
Op 03
Remove the split pin. Use the multigrip pliers.
Op 04
Unscrew the castellated nut. Use the 24 mm socket.
•
The castellated nut on the right side has a standard thread.
• The castellated nut on the left side has a reverse thread.
• The castellated nut on the left side has a reverse thread.
Op 05
Remove the hub. Pull by hand (usually sufficient) or use a hub puller.
Op 06
Retrieve the bearing washer.
Op 07
Retrieve the bearing O-ring. Use a small screwdriver.
Op 08
Remove the oil seal. Use a flathead screwdriver.
Op 09
Eject the inner race of one of the 2 bearings (with its balls). Tap with a hammer and a screwdriver.
Op 10
Turn the hub over and locate the 2 notches to drive out the outer races of the bearings (1st photo).
Remove the bearing. Use the pin punch and the hammer.
Strike alternately on both sides to slide the bearing perfectly in line with the axis of the hub. If the bearing is at an angle, it will get stuck and will not come out.
Op 11
Remove the outer race of the remaining bearing. Use the pin punch and the hammer.
If you want to reassemble the ball bearing, you can reattach the inner race and its balls to the outer race. Simply put them in position and tap with a mallet.
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Reassemble the bearings
Op 12
Thoroughly clean the hub and stub axle.
Op 13
Fit the outer race of one of the 2 bearings (GHK1805 kit) in the hub. Use a washer and the mallet.
The diameter of the washer should be very slightly smaller than the outer diameter of the bearing race. This allows you to use the washer to push the race in without it getting stuck in the hub.
If you do not have a washer of the correct diameter, you can use the outer race of the old bearing. Simply cut it before using it so that it can be easily removed
(➔ see the tutorial ''Front wheel bearings change'' Op 20 and 21).
Op 14
Fit the outer race of the 2nd bearing (GHK1805 kit) in the hub. Use a washer and the mallet.
Op 15
Fit the inner race of the inner bearing (with its roller cage).
Grease the bearing abundantly.
Op 16
Fit the oil seal (GHS102). The seal fits easily by hand.
Grease the lip of the oil seal before positioning it.
The lip of the oil seal must face the bearing.
Op 17
Fit the inner race of the outer bearing (with its roller cage).
Grease the bearing abundantly.
Op 18
Fit the O-ring (CDU1173) on the stub axle.
Lubricate the seal with engine oil before installation (1st photo).
Op 19
Fit the hub on the stub axle. Push by hand.
Op 20
Fit the washer (BTA672).
Op 21
Screw on the nut (NL610041 for the right side or FNN2410 for the left side). Use the 24 mm socket.
Op 22
Tighten the nut to 81 mN. Use the torque wrench.
Op 23
Continue tightening the nut to align one of the slots with one of the 2 holes in the stub axle.
Op 24
Fit the pin (GHF511) and spread its legs. Use the multigrip pliers.
Op 25
Fit the hub cap. Tap with the mallet.
Op 26
Check that the hub turns freely. Turn it by hand.
This is when the adaptable bearings are not satisfactory. You have to force to turn the hub.
Op 27
Reinstall the brake drum and rear wheel (➔ see the tutorial ''Replacing rear brake shoes'' Op 38 to 42).
The End
